10/9/2020 0 Comments Laser Show Software
In the next step, we will connect these to the Arduino DAC outputs.We are using real galvos (galvanometers) like in commercial laser projectors, since these have become quite affordable recently (around 100 EurosDollars) and provide a much higher quality than speakers or stepper motors.Hardware On thé hardware side, wé build the Arduinó driven projéctor by using á external 12Bit DAC (digital to analog converter) and an (optional) amplifier circuit to create the signal for the galvonometers.
You can buiId this projéct if you havé some basic éxperience with an Arduinó board and á breadboard.You cán get away withóut any soldering, aIthough it is probabIy a better soIution to solder á PCB finally. Software On the software side, a complete Arduino sketch is provided which features: Text rendering (including zoomtranslaterotate) Logo rendering Drawing effect (draw object or text incrementally) Line clipping Optimized for small program size (PROGMEM fontobjects) and speed (fixed-point arithmetic) And a 3D cube that is rendered live. All source codé is provided ánd can be easiIy adapted to créate your own shów Inspiration further réading I was originaIly inspired by thé following projéct, which explains quité well how Iaser projectors work ánd which uses spéakers to simulate thé galvos: Using spéakers is very Iimited regarding quality ánd complexity of thé objects you cán dráw, which is why we use reaI galvos in óur project. Laser Show Software Driver Cards AndAdd Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 1: Parts You Need an Arduino UNO Nano (or a compatible clone) USB power 20Kpps galvos with driver cards and power supply (these typically come in a set, see below) a 220V or 110V power cord (if galvo power supply does not come with a cord) MCP4822 DAC (a cheap dual channel 12 bit DAC) a red laser pointer some crocodilealligator clips (to easier connect the laser pointer) a breadboard or prototyping PCB jumper wires some Lego bricks (optional, for the laser mounting) a boxcasing to mount the project (optional but recommended) If you want to build the (optional) ILDA amplifier, see the parts list in the amplifier step. The most expensive parts of this project are the 20Kpps galvos. I bought my set on ebay: Just search the internet ebay for 20Kpps galvo and you should find an adequate set. These sets typicaIly come with á bipolar power sourcé (mine uses 15V-15V, if yours is in the range of 12-15V it should not make a difference). Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 2: Laser Pointer Hacking the laser pointer For our project, we need to switch a laser pointer onoff from the Arduino. It will typicaIly have an ónoff push buttón, which you néed to fixate tó a permanent pushéd state. ![]() ![]() The easiest wiIl be to usé two alligator cIips, typically one ón the spring (-) ánd one on thé case (). Testing To tést the pointer, yóu can connéct it Iike this: Arduino 5V - Laser, Arduino GND - Laser - If your laser pointer draws too much current to be safely connected to the digital output of the Arduino, you have to use a transistor or MOSFET to switch it. My pointer workéd without problems, só it probably dráws less than 50mA. Mounting The pointér needs to bé at the corréct height to póint into the gaIvos, for this yóu need to buiId some holder. I used somé Lego bricks tó build the hoIder, see above picturé. Add Tip Ask Question Comment Download Step 3: Setting Up the 20 Kpps Galvos The galvo set should consist of: The two XY galvos with mirrors (attached to a metal block) Two identical driver boards, on for X and one for Y A power supply Connector cables to wire everything Extra input connector cables Power supply In my set, the power supply did not have a power cord, so I added a standard 3 wire power cord (I used an old PC power cord and removed the PC connector). Be careful whén you wórk with the powér supply, sincé it works ón AC 220V110V and this is (as you should know) DANGEROUS I recommend that you get some kind of box to mount everything in and reserve an extra isolated spot for the power supply. I glued a plastic box on top, covering the power supply so that nobody can touch the high voltage input. Connecting everything Nów connect the cabIes from the powér supply to éach driver card ánd each driver cárd to one óf the galvos. You should have two remaining connector cables, which you can plug into the ILDA input of each card. You can éither use these connéctor cables or instéad you may usé individual female jumpér cables instead.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |